diamond and bloodstone ring

A gold ring set with a long octagonal bloodstone panel in which sits a large white rose cut diamond (app. 2 carats). The panel is surrounded by 30 small rose- cut diamonds set in silver surrounded by a pearl border. There are eight rose- cut diamonds on each side of the shank, Louis XVII, European, circa 1786, provenance: Röell family.

These large rings were worn by men as well as women in the time. After the birth of the Dauphine in 1785 large rings with one big center stone were called: ‘Bague à l’Enfantement’.

weight: 10.6 grams
ring size: 18 mm. 8 US.
dimensions ring: 3.2 x 2.3 cm
dimensions large rose cut diamond: 10 x 10 x 3 mm.

The print of this wonderful ring chart was published in the “Cabinet des Modes ou les Modes Nouvelles”, 15 Juillet 1786, pl. III, A.B. Duhamel, Pugin, Buisson, 1786. It was drawn from the Shop of M. Moricand, Merchant Jeweler, residing in the place Dauphine, no. 30.

Our source of the following translation is the fashion blog: A Most Beguiling Accomplishment (For the study of historical dress; consisting of analyses of costume in paintings, translations of and research into fashion plates, and occasionally actual sewing) – http://mimic-of-modes.blogspot.nl/2014/03/cabinet-des-modes-17e-cahier-3e-figure.html:

“They are very-large now, very different from those that were worn less than two years ago, which were only often composed of a large enclosed stone. A large diamond, a large brilliant stone is put in the middle of an oval, squared, lozenge, plain squared, eight-sectioned squared composition stone. In the middle of this composition stone, the diamond is surrounded with other fine stones, or roses, or it is alone. The composition stone is surrounded with diamonds, or roses, or pearls; or it is nude, it is all plain. If the stone in the middle is not rather large, two smaller ones are put at the two ends of the setting: it is surrounded as well with other diamonds. Most often the setting is dotted with little diamonds mounted in little stars, and these are called Rings au Firmament. If the stone is rather strong, it is put alone in the middle of the composition stone, and it is still dotted with little stars in diamond.

The lozenge settings have four sharp points, or are little marked, and hardly form long ovals. The squared are long, or are perfect squares, and are all with cut angles. The compositions stones have a green, Sky blue, violet, puce, yellow, or grey ground.

In the place of white stones in the middle of the setting, colored stones are placed, in observing the unity, as there should be, of the composition stone of the setting with the surrounded stone. It is necessary that that of the setting matches the surrounded stone in a manner which flatters the eye, the only judge of taste. These latter ones are called, Rings à l’Enfantement. If they are large, they are for women, as for men.

You can make your choice from the Rings drawn in the Ring Chart represented in the IIIrd Plate; the colors seem to match well.”